We Almost See the North Pole!

July 9  Thursday. 

The stench is gone, thanks to eating the broccoli out of the cooler. And drying out the carpet, I am sure.  The power of broccoli is not to be under estimated!  We have reached our furthest point on the Dalton, 163 miles from Prudhoe Bay. It doesn't feel complete without seeing the Arctic Ocean. That being said, you can't go to the Arctic Ocean without clearance and a guided tour. I guess you might be able to see Russia from there (our never-ending joke).  

The drive has been beautiful, the road better than we expected. The transatlantic pipeline has been our constant friend, snaking it's way from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez 800 miles in total. It is sometimes above ground, sometimes below ground depending on permafrost. It can be straight or serpentine, allowing for expansion and contraction. Fireweed often flanks the pipeline as there is a road along it. It makes it more palatable and sometimes downright pretty. 

The weather cleared of clouds and smoke. The country is vast, the Brooks Range full of 7,000ft peaks covered in tundra. Tree line here is 2,500ft compared to Colorado's 12,000ft. Average rainfall in the arctic a mere five inches. We walked up a hillock of tundra just past Atigun Pass (4800 ft, highest in Alaska) marveling how deep we sank in the spongy ground. The tundra is comprised of many different plants, including low scrubby bushes, tiny wild flowers, mosses (including caribou moss which we saw in southeast Alaska and BC) lichen and mushrooms. Unfortunately there has been a dearth of wildlife.  Despite stopping several times with binoculars we have yet to see dall sheep much less caribou, wolf or grizzlies. We had the impression there was wildlife everywhere.  The problem could be twofold. It has been warmer than usual, so the animals may be staying higher. The second is we have yet to make an alpine start. 

July 10, Friday

Our drive out has been uneventful, camping at a primitive site next to Fish Creek. Rich caught four small grayling on a fly rod, Reese and I caught bushes and rocks. The mosquitoes are as bad as everyone says. We employ an arsenal and still get bit.