On the Al-Can

June 26. Friday

We turned north today after a very long 464 mile day yesterday. We are on the Cassiar Highway. We stayed in cute town called Smithers with a hotel and 9:30pm dinner. While we had attempted to stop earlier in Burns Lake at a municipal campground it turned out dirty and skeevy. After chasing google maps around for a misplaced RV Park we decided to push on through. 

We have been listening to CBC radio which doesn't mention much about US news. It is refreshing to hear about other countries. The heat wave extends to BC, with areas getting to 40 degrees Celsius (104F). We are blessedly not experiencing that today, but the AC still works if we do!  

Our pace is a bit more relaxed today, but still moving. A pencil just flew up from the back seat due to some perceived transgression. Traveling is so much fun!

We headed down a fireweed framed road to Stewart, BC. It is on the coast across from Hyder, AK. They are old mining towns separated by the 90 mile natural Portland Canal. When naming Hyder in 1905 Portland was rejected by the U.S. because there 'were too many cities named Portland'. 

June 27, Saturday. 

Three weeks on the road, 350 miles done yesterday.  The road was good, a recent power line project marring our view. The wilds stretch miles without buildings or airplanes when BAM!  power lines, big power lines start accompanying us. We could see them along the highway when we camped at Kinaskan Lake last evening  but we have managed to have lost them this morning. Good riddance. 

Kinaskan Lake was beautiful, big and still. Loon haunted us with their call and an occasional fish jumped. Reese practiced catching his flip flop while we set up camp. We all sprayed some variation of DEET when we stopped. The mosquitos are upon us. The sun didn't set until midnight. I used an eye cover for the first time this morning to catch some more Zzzs. 

 

Hours later we hit the Al-Can after crossing into the Yukon. For some reason I had it in my mind it would be less remote and we might have cell service. The road is better, but not a tower in sight. I am glad for the wild, really. 

D

Hitting the Road Hard

June 25 Thursday 

We blew our wad in the Canadian Rockies and we are beelining for Alaska. We sat down in Jasper Community Park yesterday after being denied at the Aquatic Center for swimming and broke out the Milepost and an atlas.  Rich started hyperventilating a bit when we realized how many miles we have to make.  1502 to be sort of exact. So much for seeing British Columbia!

We enjoyed Jasper. It seemed like a real town with a tourist veneer. It has a beautiful old train station with passenger trains arriving daily. The trainiacs in the family (of which I am not) watched and I went into the station to catch a bit of the World Cup.  We tried biking Jasper, but without gears Ruby was too challenged. I feel I need to come back to do some biking. The trails out of town were fantastic. We did a 3 mile loop around the Valley of Five Lakes which was plenty of miles for the kids. I don't know if we will see nine miles out of them again this trip.  Jasper was good camp time with s'mores, elk bedding down in the field by our camp, and very faint northern lights. 

We are headed west on the Yellowhead Highway (16) to pick up the Cassiar Highway (37) headed north. We may or may not make it to the Cassiar as we need to make a stop for laundry and groceries. In any case, we are on the road!

Canadian Rockies Rock!!!

une 22, Monday

Leaving Lake Louise headed north to Jasper via the Icefields. What a spectacular time and place!  We spent three nights and not enough days to do all we wanted. The rain let up and sun came up and we spent lots of time hiking. The kids set their personal best of 9.2 miles yesterday.  Then they wanted to canoe!  Which we did. We hiked up to Plain of Six Teahouse above Lake Louise at the foot of several peaks and glaciers. The views were spectacular and the whining was minimal!  With each step there was a new wonder to behold. The lake changed color throughout the day, showing us her gaudy and subdued. It was fantastic.  Unfortunately it was also the moment where our children eclipsed us. At five and seven we were more tired than they were by 9pm. And it was bright daylight and difficult to get them to go to bed. 

The day before we headed to Yoho National Park for a shorter hike to Laughing Falls. On the way we stopped to learn about the spiral tunnels of the Canada Pacific Railroad, which Rich rode in his youth.  It is a means for the trains to make a climb or descent without the danger of a steep grade. On the way back to the campsite we were fortunate enough to see a train using a tunnel. The pictures may be difficult to discern, but the train is going in and coming out at the same time. Rich and Reese were very excited. 

So we are packed up and on the road in record time this morning. The kids are eating leftover pizza for breakfast and we head out to the Icefields, the high country of Banff and Jasper. But before we head out Ruby pulled out her loose tooth. Let's hope the Canadian tooth fairy does a better job than the American tooth fairy.  She wasn't always reliable!

The Icefields are amazing!  We stopped at the Athabasca Glacier which is part of the Columbia Icefield. The Columbia Icefield drains into the Pacific, the Atlantic and Artic Oceans!!!!  The rate of recession is alarming and the National Park is even allowed to mention greenhouse gasses on their placards!

We stop and hiked a bit, but there is plenty to see from the windshield. We try to spot wildlife, and use people stopped with their cameras out as cues. 'Is it a selfie, or does he see something' we ask each other. The kids are hard at work on their Xplorer handbooks, anxious to get another dogtag.

Oh Canada!

June 16th Tuesday

Leaving Fernie, BC a town of my youth. It is all about skiing and biking, towering Rockies dwarfing the single street downtown. Calgary folks are just starting to move in with their second homes, beautiful modern homes on the hill overlooking the the skate park and the bike park. I did a bit of damage on the wooden walk at the lid's bike park. Clearly I don't have skill I used to. Reese was a madman, pushing his bike to the top of a hill and taking jumps and tight turns. Ruby joined in on her 'Hello Kitty' bike on a smaller scale. Warm, gorgeous mountain weather. 

We camped a few klicks out of town at a well maintained provincial park.  We mountain biked from camp though Reese has not learned to embrace the uphill yet. Thick cedar woods kept us cool without mosquitoes. I am grateful for every day we don't need to apply bug spray. It just another hassle factor; putting up screens, keeping it zipped, and something else to police. 

We had the WORST NIGHT EVER after leaving Fernie. We stopped through Cranbrook and spent the better part of two hours learning about the Canadian Pacific Railroad where rail cars from the turn of the century and the late twenties were restored. Gorgeous craftsmanship with inlaid wood, stained glass and fixtures that have stood the test of time. 

We followed the glacial Kootenay river for sixty miles or so, as it wandered between two mountain ranges, stopping or pooling at times for irrigation and recreation. 

When we arrived at Fairmont Hot Springs, a site I found on line we were ready for dinner and an adult beverage. 24 hours with the kids without break is a test I do not always pass. The site promised laundry, a hot springs pool, showers--an upscale KOA in my mind. There is also a hotel, spa, restaurant and shopping on site. We passed miniature golf and other kids activities, filling our heads with visions of fun. My original thought was that we would spend two nights, lounge by the pool, do laundry, play, and catch up with WiFi. But when I discovered at check-in the pool required payment my rose colored glasses began to fog. We opted for one night with an option for a second, but the width of the sites were so narrow we could barely put out our chairs. We were near the bathroom, where it was requested not to do our dishes, but there was no other sink provided. To prevent creating bear bait one must leave absolutely no trace, not even smells. ' Be bear aware' was plastered everywhere. There was no means for us to heed this missive under the circumstances and black bear had been loafing around the site. 

After the kids and I payed the discounted $6/pp for the late swim Rich took off to do laundry--1/4mile from our site.  One would assume there would be a change machine and laundry soap for purchase, but no, that would be too low-brow, as would a wash up sink for dishes. Rich then hoofed it to the hotel to get laundry soap and ended doing laundry there since we didn't have correct change. Between running back and forth, finishing the laundry at 11, me finishing the dishes in the dark at our campsite (I strained the wash water in the bathroom sink---take that), screaming the children to bed we decided there was nothing accommodating about the geriatric, snobbish Fairmont where we clearly did not make (nor did we want to) the cut. I must add at this point Rich and I were venomously whisper shouting at each other, not that anyone could hear us. They were all tucked into their shiny giant houses on wheels where they could do their dishes inside. It made me not want to flush after peeing in their damn toilet. 

The only redeeming aspect of our stay was wifi. We both dove into our phones, not searching news (although I wonder who some woman is from Spokane) but Facebook.  Seeing familiar faces, feeling some community, as corny as it seems, was comforting. 

Being in Canada has curtailed my electronic use and because of that highlighted my need for connection via the Internet. It isn't all Facebook, but also the ability to look answer questions in the moment. I have always recognized I was more 'connected' that Rich, I never realized the extent of need to 'disconnect' from the moment. Even this moment, writing on the phone, is my moment to be by myself, to disengage. 

Friday June 19th

Radium Hot Springs and wolf siting in Kootenay National Park were two recent highlights, and any moment without rain brought joy to the rest. We traveled through Kootenay to spend time in Banff which is gorgeous, and wet. The rain boots are in use, as well as all polypropylene clothes. The skies have been clearing in the afternoon allowing a hike and fire time. Mornings, late as they are for us (we are out just as the eleven o'clock check time rolls around) becomes a scramble as rain waxes and wanes. It doesn't do much for my attitude. I know I need to buck up. My control issues have come to the forefront as the van gets wet and filthy. Let it go, let it go!!!!

A hike up Johnston Creek to see waterfalls in sunshine has improved my mood, as has viewing Lake Louise. One has the impression it is a remote, secluded place but instead it has a towering hotel originally built by the Canada Pacific Railroad and hundreds of voices in many languages roaming around the boardwalk. 

The Fun Has Just Begun!

Friday, June 12

Sitting in Auto Haus again after spending  the night in Glacier. We are getting to know a mile long stretch of industrial Kalispell pretty well. Walking to the hotel two days ago, walking to lunch and the grocery store today. And walking back to the grocery store for coffee. Auto shops just aren't that stimulating. 

When we drove up to McDonald lodge this morning for breakfast the van didn't start. Again. We got a jump and headed back to Kalispell all sorts of plans swirling in our heads. Staying at a KOA with miniature golf and a swimming pool, waiting it out in town, or staying at the McDonald lodge while Rich deals with the van. The princess in me voted for a lodge stay but the loyal Taurus stays true to her family unit. So here we are. 

A loose screw on the starter was the unreliable connection.  The battery we bought in CdA was the wrong battery that could have potentially started a fire. So much for their wit--no indication of their knowledge.  

We will eventually head back to the park and do a bit more camping. 

Saturday, June 13

'What's today, Friday?' I ask. 'No idea' replies Rich. How quickly we cease to care.  We just have to be in Fernie on 15th for a camping reservation, whatever day that is. We spent the night at Two Medicine Lake instead of 'Driving to the Sun' and back. It was beautiful and windy, enough to keep the bugs at bay.  Amazing mountains, green glacial lakes. Rich invited over a solitary neighbor for coffee, an older gentleman camping without a car. It may have been prompted by curiosity but I was grateful as echoes of Jesus and Buddha were bouncing around in my heart.  He was a slightly querulous old guy with chosen stories to share including living with Alice from 'Alice's Restaurant'. He ignored questions he didn't want to answer and tested my knowledge of southwestern foliage (my memory failed me). It made the morning interesting. 

We walked up to Running Eagle Falls on the way out, a beautiful legend of a warrior woman of the Blackfeet tribe before the 1700s. It is impossible to impart the importance of this on a five or seven year old. Now we're are headed for St Mary's, the western side of the park,  talking about glaciers and moraines. Ruby doesn't believe our geological accounts as her volcanic version was resoundedly rejected by all of us. 'I don't believe anything you say' she says. 

June 14. The past two days have been bearalicious!  A grizzly and her cubs yesterday in Glacier at Many Glaciers and four in Waterton International Peace Park. Many Glaciers was gorgeous, and our first taste of weather to come. Wetter, cooler when the sun hides in the clouds.  We hiked to Grinnell Lake, below a disappearing glacier. It was a personal best for the kids, seven miles round trip.  The views were amazing, including the moose and Grizzlies. 

We spent enough time in Waterton to get a hike in and for the kids to earn their Explorer tag. They have been wearing their Junior Ranger badges non stop for days. Waterton is more wild than our national parks. Not sure if it is because there are fewer visitors or they are more concentrated in fewer areas. Bear were everywhere, and we spotted a coyote and fox as well. It is here we traded our shorts and t shirts for polypropylene and pants. 

And the van!  It starts every time!  Talk about being grateful for the little things. Not to mention staying on track!  Not having to set up a tent every night no matter the weather. After a week my nails and feet cracking, we are running out of clean underwear and our daily schedule has completely changed. We all sleep in and stay up late. It is difficult to create alone adult time unless I am reading a book which doesn't happen often either. It frays our nerves a bit, the relentless kid time. They get sick of us too. 

Killer Caterpillars in Glacier

We hit Glacier around 2pm after a swim and set up camp. For some reason Rich and I are both wound a bit tight today (the van works great now, with AC). In my mind it the fact Reese has discovered (I have noticed) volume with his voice but who knows. Ruby played with a caterpillar in camp, as if it were her new friend. The kids are the first of us to seek out others at this point, although it could change. 

We hiked near Lake McDonald from Fish Creek campground up to Rocky Point. The tent caterpillars are in full force, all over every leaf, crossing trails, foliage I constant motion. It took much longer than expected to ready for a 2 mile hike, what with putting on shoes and socks, sunscreen, camelbacks, and whatever else distracted those under 10 years old.  But we set out to explore the shore of Lake McDonald, the Roger fire of 2003 and, it seemed the caterpillars. Ruby picked one up early in the hike, as she had a positive experience earlier in camp. Within a minute she was screaming that it had peed on her, hysterical screaming that was comical at first until she didn't stop. Turns out it burned when it peed, causing her to fear all caterpillars everywhere. Which were everywhere. Which made it difficult to hike when she spied one on the path, as she would stop in her tracks and start screaming. We made our way around the loop, Reese dragging behind on the uphill. He was a bit behind when he started screaming, and running toward us (Ruby was blessedly quiet at this point) he tripped and laid in the trail crying. This is early evening, mind you, and all Rich and I want to do at this point is get back to camp. I walked back and told him to get up, and that the caterpillars are going to get him if he lays in the dirt. He cried that a caterpillar got in his hat (?) somehow and when he tried to remove it, it peed on him and it burned his hand. Attack of the killer caterpillars I guess. The rest of the hike was still traumatic for Ruby, but Reese recovered.  It didn't stop them from fishing this evening. They caught a tree branch and a stick.  Glacier rocks! With killer caterpillars!